Wednesday, May. 28, 2008

Wine Line: Varieties beyond the Big Six

If you have been reading this column and have diligently completed your homework, you are familiar with the three most popular white and red wines in the United States (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir ). The Big Six make up about 80 percent of the wine purchased in this country. The remaining 20 percent will be the focus of today's Wine Line. You don't have to take notes, but make sure you invite your friends over to do an informal blind tasting to see which wine you like best.

If you're a Chardonnay fan but are getting tired of the "sameness" of all Chards in the $9- $15 price range, break loose and try a Viognier. This wine has a scent of peaches, apricots and honeysuckle with a rich and creamy texture. It goes well with rich seafood, heavy butter or cream dishes and most Asian dishes. A few producers who have done well with this varietal are R.H. Phillips, Pepperwood Grove, Hogue and Qupe. Another option would be a dry Chenin Blanc with apple and pear aromas. Try one from Chappellet, Dry Creek Vineyard or the What's On Our Table selection in January, Pine Ridge.

If your favorite Sauvignon Blanc has lost its pucker-power, try a New Zealand Brancott, Nobilo or Kim Crawford Sauv Blank. Can you say grapefruit? Or try a French Sancerre like Pascual Jolivet with it's citrus-mineral-herbaceous quality. Pair these two wines with your house Sauvignon Blanc in a blind tasting. Which style do you prefer? Shuck the oysters and let the party begin.

Over-Riesling-ed? Tired of "off-dry" wines that are too sweet? Then the wine to try is Gewurztraminer.

This wine has an aroma of rose petals, ginger, cloves, pears, apricots and spices. It holds up well to rich Alsatian food such as pork chops, smoked fish, meats and sausage in sauerkraut and amazingly well with spicy Indian, Chinese or Thai foods. Hogue, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Navarro and Fetzer are excellent producers with Fetzer being a great bargain.

If you have benched your cleanup hitter (Cabernet Sauvignon) and are looking for a pinch hitter, don't overlook California Zinfandel. With raspberry fruit, a touch of pepper and medium to big tannins, this wine works well with barbecue, especially lamb. For great producers, just remember the three R's, Rosenblum, Ridge and Ravenswood. A cool climate Syrah (Qupe)or Petite Sirah (Bogle) could also be a hit in the four spot of your lineup.

Sangiovese and Malbec are two excellent substitutes for Merlot. Sangiovese is the backbone of Chianti with its strawberry fruit and hints of leather, spices and tobacco. Malbec has black cherry fruit, a medium body and is very soft in the finish. It is Argentina's most popular red wine. Also look for Carmenere from Chile with its velvety herbal quality, similar to Merlot but with a bit more spice.

Finding a substitute for Pinot Noir is not easy because if you've had a great Pinot, you know, THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE! Some wine experts suggest a Beaujolais or Cabernet Franc but get real, there is no substitute, period! I like David Bruce, DeLoach, Jekel, Hahn Estates, Gallo of Sonoma, Calera, Carmel Road, Morgan, Kenwood, Navarro, Sanford, McMurray Ranch, Bogle, Saintsbury, Costa de Oro, Edna Valley, Byron. ... If I had to pick one for What's On Our Table it would be the Gallo of Sonoma. This Pinot is under $15, readily available and a good price to value.

Questions, comments, suggestions? You can reach me at rgwinton@yahoo.com.