Wednesday, Apr. 02, 2008

Wine Line: The red wine lesson

How was your white wine tasting? Which wine did you enjoy the most? The Riesling, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay? Did you remember to have fun and keep your pinkie finger down? Are you ready to hand in your homework? What's that? The dump bucket tipped over on your homework and then your dog ate it? Well lucky for you, today's assignment, the red wines, will get you back on track. After reading this column, invite two couples over for a tasting. Have them bring the appetizers and three wine glasses each and you provide the wine. Pour the wine ahead of time so the tasters don't know what red wines they are tasting. Taste and discuss each wine, then vote for your favorite.

Pinot noir (PEE-no NWAHR)

Finding reasonably priced pinot noirs is not easy. This has been the "in" wine since the movie "Sideways" was released. Look for Gallo of Sonoma, Meridian, Kendall-Jackson, Estancia, Jekel and Robert Mondavi Coastal for value-priced producers.

Check out the color. It should be the lightest of the three wines. Tilt the glass against a white background. You can see through the wine; it's almost translucent. Swirl the glass and smell the aromas. Do you pick up blackberry, black cherry, cranberry or more of the red fruits, such as raspberry, red cherry or strawberry? These are typical descriptors of pinot noir. What is the mouthfeel (texture) of the wine? Light or medium? Good pinots usually have a silky or satiny feel with a long soft finish (no heavy tannins). Pinot noir is the universal wine that pleases both white and red wine drinkers and pairs well with fish (think salmon or tuna), poultry, veal, pork, duck or anything with mushrooms or tangy cheeses. I love this wine.

Merlot (Murr-LOW)

Columbia Crest, Estancia, Meridian, Bogle, Gallo of Sonoma, Cycles Gladiator and Sebastiani are good brands to seek out. Sales in merlot took a bit of a dive after the wine got blasted in "Sideways," but it will always be popular because it is easy to pronounce and easy to drink. It is like drinking cabernet sauvignon without the mouth-puckering tannins. The color should be deeper than the pinot. After you swirl the glass you should pick up aromas of black fruits (berries, currants, olives) and notes of chocolate, coffee and sometimes leather. The mouthfeel should be medium (think whole milk) and flavors should reflect those aromas with sometimes a hint of vanilla (new oak barrels). Merlot is a soft sipping red wine or match it with steaks, hamburgers, sausages and hard dry cheeses.

Cabernet Sauvignon (Cab-uhr-NAY Sow-veen-YONE)

The merlot producers mentioned above will also be good choices for cabernet. Cab is the top-selling red wine in the world. Wow! Look at the color. It should be deep dark reddish-purple almost ink-like. Swirl and smell the wine. Big black fruits, cinnamon, cloves, eucalyptus, licorice, menthol, mint, nutmeg, plum, violets, cedar, chocolate, cigar box, coffee, earthy, leather and truffles are all possible descriptors. Taste the wine. Swish the wine around your mouth while inhaling some air. Do your teeth feel "hairy"? If so, these are the tannins in the wine that give it the full body (think heavy cream) and its aging capabilities. If you like big, you will like the long finish of this wine. If not, there is always the soft merlot or the silky pinot.

What's On Our Table: 2005 Cycles Gladiator Merlot and Syrah

No, I don't work for Hahn Estates of Monterey, who produce this label, but both wines won double gold and the Merlot won Best of Class in the SF Chronicle Wine Competition. Both are priced under $10. I found them at Smart and Final for $7.39, and that is a steal! Buy cases!

Questions, comments, suggestions? Contact me at rgwinton@yahoo.com.