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Columnists - # - Russ Winton: Wine Line

Wednesday, Nov. 18, 2009

Russ Winton: Wine Suggestions For Turkey Day

"I cook with wine -- sometimes I even add it to the food" is my editor's favorite line. She is a true gourmet, and I never question her decision on food, nor does she on my wine selections.

She told me that this year bourbon sweet potatoes were out and sweet potato gnocchi with a brown butter sage sauce was in. She asked if that would create a problem with my wine selections?

"Of course, it will", I said. Brown butter sage sauce? Man, I'm really going to miss those bourbon sweet potatoes.

Actually, choosing wines for the Thanksgiving meal is not difficult. There are a few basic rules to follow, but the most important is to please your palate. In other words, drink what you like.

If you like Two-Buck-Chuck, white zinfandel or ruby port with Thanksgiving Day foods, that's fine -- stop reading and have a wonderful Thanksgiving.

If you are not sure, here are the four basic rules for Turkey Day:

Rule No. 1: You want to taste the food, and you can't with high-alcohol wines. Wines over 16 percent alcohol will overpower the food, burn the back of your throat and put you to sleep before dessert hits the table.

Rule No. 2: Forget big heavy tannic wines like young California cabernet sauvignons or young French Bordeaux wines. You want to taste the food, not the furry tannins on your teeth. Remember: turkey is not a rib-eye-steak.

Rule No. 3: Avoid wines that are heavily oaked.

You want the fruit of the wine to work with the food -- not a plank of oak wood. Avoid most low-end chardonnays as they tend to be over-oaked, and that will certainly dominate the food flavors

Rule No. 4: Don't let your partner know how easy this. Explain that it will probably take weeks of tastings to select the correct wines.

If you are starting with appetizers, a sparkling wine such as a Mumm Brut Rose or Cuvee M would be a strong pick. If you prefer white wines, you might want to try an un-oaked chardonnay.

Morgan's Metallico and Tolosa's un-oaked chardonnay are delicious food wines. Oregon's King Estate has an excellent Pinot Gris, and Navarro's Gewurtztraminier would also be a good match. A white blend such as Big House White (see below) might be interesting to try.

Red wine fans (remember, low tannins/low alcohol) might enjoy a pinot noir, merlot or syrah. Costco has some excellent pinots available.

Three merlots I like are Mondavi Napa Valley, Tin Roof and Blackstone Sonoma County. These are comfort wines made to match comfort foods. Ravenswood Winery and Hahn Estates produce excellent California Syrahs worthy of a place on the table.

Have an enjoyable time tasting, and have a wonderful Thanksgiving. Who knows? Maybe I'll get my bourbon sweet potatoes after all.

What's on our table

The 2008 Big House White was chosen by Wine Enthusiast as their No. 1 wine under $15. It is a blend of Malvasia Bianca, Muscat, Viognier and Rousanne. It is bone-dry and has melon and pear aromas with flavors of peaches and dried apricots. It is delicious and only $9.99 at Raley's.

Questions? Comments? Suggestions? You can reach me at rgwinton@yahoo.com.

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