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Columnists - # - Russ Winton: Wine Line

Wednesday, Jan. 20, 2010

Wine Line: Reasons to linger in Lodi

Lodi wine country is located 100 miles east of San Francisco near the San Joaquin River Delta, south of Sacramento and west of the Sierra.

Lodi has been a wine grape-growing region since the 1850s. Today, the area has 100,000 acres of wine grapes, farmed by more than 750 growers, producing around 600,000 tons of grapes. After the federal government approved the Lodi appellation in 1986, this little-known wine region took off -- and it hasn't looked back.

With 70 boutique wineries and close to 50 tasting rooms, it's OK to be "stuck in Lodi again," as Creedence Clearwater wailed. For one, the area doesn't seem to have an attitude. Maybe it's because they realize they aren't Napa. Or, maybe they know their old vine zinfandels and petite sirahs are the real deal. The tasting rooms are welcoming and friendly. The locals work hard to make your visit a pleasant one. If there's a tasting fee, it's minimal and is deducted with a purchase. Heading home is a straight shot down highway 99. I like being stuck there.

There are several ways to visit Lodi. If this is your first trip, start at the Lodi Wine and Visitor Center which is funded by the Lodi Wine Grape Commission (www.lodiwine.com). If you want to park your car and do a walking tasting, you can head downtown to four tasting rooms and be close to several excellent restaurants. You can also head to Lockford (Highway 88) and visit seven tasting rooms at Vino Piazza.

If you plan to seek out individual wineries, here are a few I recommend. Macchia, on East Peltier Road, is a red wine-lovers' delight. Located in the family home, the tasting room is warm and comfy, the staff extremely friendly and the wines (all red) are excellent examples of what the Lodi region can produce. Big, bold and delicious is how I described Macchia's wines in my notes. Their Barbera has won international acclaim, competing in Italy, and it's a winner.

Open just three months, St. Jorge Winery on Bender Road is definitely worth a visit. This is a beautiful, well-designed winery, complete with a commercial kitchen and an Italian chef hired to run a cooking school. Lunches will be served beginning in March. St. Jorge is pouring Verdelho, Tempranillo and Zinfandel. All three are well balanced and varietally correct. I was able to barrel-taste the future wines of St. Jorge and was impressed with the potential of these wines. Portuguese varietal wines, Italian food, a beautiful facility and Andrea Bocelli singing in the background -- I will definitely return.

Are you a fan of Seven Deadly Zins? Make sure you visit the Michael David Winery. If you like terrific port, don't miss St. Amant Winery. So many wineries, so many fine wines and so close to home. If you like tasty food and music, try the upcoming Wine and Chocolate Weekend, Feb. 13-14. Tickets are available at www.lodiwineandchocolate.com.

What's on our table

2007 Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel is the real deal from Lodi. Thirty-five- to 80-year-old head-pruned vines produce rich flavors of plum and chocolate, firm tannins and a rich long finish. The SRP is $16.99 but you'll find it on sale for about $13 at Save Mart or Raleys. Pair it with pepper steak, pizza or red sauce pasta. Heaven, pure heaven. Cheers!

Questions? Comments? Suggestions? You can reach me at rgwinton@yahoo.com.

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