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Columnists - # - Amanda De Jager Friedman

Wednesday, Feb. 17, 2010

Amanda De Jager Friedman: Culinary staple for centuries with a new twist

Macaroni and cheese is one of the most common and accessible comfort foods that we can enjoy. We all know darn well that the easiest way to get some carbs into your kids' belly is to serve up a big plate of golden mac. My little rascals would eat it every night if they had the choice!

Pasta with cheese has been a culinary staple in Italy for centuries. It came to the U.S. with early settlers. Kraft Foods developed their boxed macaroni and cheese -- which we all know and appreciate as one of the easiest and strangely satisfying dinners available -- in 1937. During World War II, the popular Kraft dinner was wildly popular because it required so little of the scarcely available rationed dairy products, and was a quick fix for the working mothers of the day. Since then, people all over North America have embraced the dish for the obvious reasons of familiarity and ease.

As of late, however, mac 'n' cheese has taken on a whole new verve. High-end restaurants have employed just about every culinary spin to bring animation everyone's favorite cheesy pasta. In the last few years, I've tried macaroni and cheese with truffles, chipotle peppers, pancetta, blue cheese and even spinach. The truffle pasta at Stack Restaurant in Las Vegas earns my top vote, but it requires an overly opulent and inaccessible ingredient for most home cooks, myself included.

Emeril Lagasse (the BAM! guy on Food Network) hosted a mac 'n' cheese competition on "Good Morning America" last year. The winner, Laura Macek, was right on with her bacon-laden, roasted garlic-scented, bubbly cheesy dish. It requires a few extra steps, such as roasting the garlic and cooking the bacon ahead, but with every dreamy bite, you'll agree that it was worth the work.

When I tested the dish, the smell alone was enough to bring a herd of crazed farm boys (also known as my family members) from all corners of the property to stick their forks directly into the baking dish for a big heaping bite of yummy pasta. We tend to be animalistic about our food, and now and then "the boys," as they are lovingly referred to, will actually finish an entire dish without ever soiling a plate. It's just slightly more dignified than watching buzzards fight over a road-kill carcass. Needless to say, this mac was no exception! I'll take it as a compliment.

Don't get your noggin in a noodle -- this dish really is easy. You can roast the garlic up to five days ahead, and keep it in the fridge till you need it. All the ingredients are easy to find, and the only accompaniment you might want is a fresh green salad.

Amanda De Jager Friedman owns the Piano Caffe in Merced.

RECIPE: Best mac 'n' cheese ever

1 head of garlic, roasted

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 pound Cavatappi, Gemelli, or Macaroni pasta

1/2 pound sliced Applewood smoked bacon

1 1/2 cups unseasoned bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

8 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup minced shallots

1/2 cup flour

1 quart whole milk

6 ounces Gruyere or Swiss cheese, grated

8 ounces extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, grated

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350°.

To roast garlic: Slice 1/2-inch off the top of the entire head of garlic. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Wrap garlic head tightly in a square of heavy foil and roast until tender -- about 45 minutes. Remove garlic pulp by squeezing garlic head. Smash cloves with a fork to form a paste.

Cook pasta according to package directions.

Cook bacon completely. Drain on paper towels. Reserve 1 tablespoon of bacon fat. Crumble bacon when cool.

To make topping: Combine breadcrumbs, crumbled bacon, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Sauté shallots over low heat in reserved bacon fat for one minute. Add remaining 6 tablespoons of butter and continue to sauté shallots in butter and bacon fat until translucent.

Add flour and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes. Increase heat to medium. Stirring constantly with a whisk, add milk and roasted garlic paste.

Cook until sauce is thickened (coats the back of a spoon). Remove sauce from heat, then add salt, pepper, nutmeg, Gruyere and Cheddar cheeses. Taste and adjust salt and pepper if necessary.

Stir in cooked pasta. Pour into baking dish. Sprinkle topping to cover entire top. Cover with foil and bake 15 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until sauce is bubbly and topping is browned. Enjoy!

Recipe adapted from Laura Macek

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