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travel

Saturday, Jun. 18, 2011

Lake Tahoe from above: Breathtaking glide begins Zephyr Cove stay

ZEPHYR COVE, Nev. -- We were flying a few thousand feet above the sunny Carson Valley, high enough to see the deep blue of Lake Tahoe over the snow-frosted mountains to the left. I was just getting comfortable, checking out the view from the glider's back seat as a small plane pulled us with a tow rope.

Then the pilot released the rope, and the plane veered away from us. It got quiet -- real quiet. We were alone. Without an engine.

It was fantastic.

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Just as our pilot/tour guide had promised us back on the ground, we didn't plummet from the sky like a stone -- quite the opposite. For 20 minutes, we rode the winds down, up and around the valley with all the control of an airplane, just without the noise.

The glider company, which operates out of Minden, Nev., calls itself Soaring NV for good reason. Nestled in the mountains east of Tahoe, Soaring NV couldn't be in a more spectacularly scenic place. With the glass cockpit covering us on three sides, there was a postcard wherever we looked.

Add a DVD of your 40-minute flight, captured by a small camera on the glider's wing, and the trip was nothing short of an amazing experience. Plus, it was only a half-hour from Zephyr Cove, our home base during a two-day trip to Lake Tahoe.

Finding one spot to hunker down really helps to maximize the vacation experience, especially in Tahoe, with its 72 miles of shoreline. A growing number of activities and attractions increases the appeal for the longtime summer staple for families.

For my family, Zephyr Cove turned out to be the perfect home base. In the same morning, we could swim off Tahoe's best beach, then fly thousands of feet above it. The cove was only a few minutes from South Shore's casinos, but lacked the traffic and noise of the California side of town.

At Zephyr Cove Lodge, 28 cabins sit only a few dozen yards from the lake. Our cabin could sleep six, easily, with a large master bedroom and upstairs loft. Especially useful were the fully functioning kitchen and large gas fireplace in the living room, both of which came in handy during our stay. Next to a large general store, which doubles as the registration desk, is the lodge's restaurant and bar, with wide windows allowing for lake views and a surprisingly abundant menu. Like anything with the word "lodge" in its name should, portions are hefty and range from fresh fish and burgers to Mexican fare.

From Zephyr Cove, it's a short walk to two of Tahoe's best attractions: paddle-wheelers the Tahoe Queen and M.S. Dixie II. We took the latter across the lake to Emerald Bay in the afternoon. The 2½-hour trip was peaceful and scenic, with views of the entire lake front. Especially riveting were the approaching mountains of the lake's west side, which seemed to rise straight up out of the water to the snow line, where the colors change from deep green forest to sky blue.

With summer approaching, there are plenty of family-friendly activities around Zephyr Cove and South Shore. A mile of private beach is sheltered in the cove, with parasailing, wakeboarding and watercraft rentals available during the summer. At Tahoe Trout Farm, no license is needed, and owners provide bait and tackle for kids, then clean the fish they catch. The Taylor Creek Visitor Center is a hub for self-guided tours on hiking trails.

Also, the Heavenly Gondola is now open, carrying visitors to the observation deck near the top of Heavenly ski resort, with 360-degree views of the lake and the Carson Valley. Look carefully and you might even see a glider.

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