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Columnists - # - Adam Blauert

Wednesday, Jul. 20, 2011

Cruz-ing from cliff to coast

About 15 miles north of Santa Cruz on Highway 1, the Rancho del Oso section of Big Basin Redwoods State Park connects the core of the park to the Pacific Ocean.

This is a place where the redwoods follow the slopes down to the cool mists and breezes of the coast — a welcome antidote to the hot Central Valley summer.

Many people visit this area as part of a popular 34-mile backpack trip along the Skyline to the Sea Trail. Starting at Castle Rock State Park, the trail descends from the top of the coast mountains all the way down to Waddell Beach.

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You don't have to commit to 34 miles, however, if you want to enjoy this area. The lower six miles of the trail take you from the beach through an open canyon and ultimately into shady redwoods along Waddell Creek.

The trail is popular, but not crowded. For the first mile and a half, hikers follow the Skyline to Sea Bypass Trail, while bikers and horseback riders follow a graded fire road. Eventually the bypass trail merges back onto the fire road near one of the established trail camps. Beyond this junction, the fire road has eroded in some places and is no longer wide enough for vehicle use, though it provides an excellent surface for bike tires and horseshoes.

We were the only horseback riders that afternoon, but we saw several families with elementary school-aged children on bikes.

Other than one section with a couple of steep switchback curves, the first section of the trail is an easy, enjoyable ride or walk that just about anyone can handle. You don't even have to go the whole way — within a mile of the parking area you start seeing redwoods. The farther you go, the more you see. Two or three miles in from the beach we watched a doe and two fawns carefully ford the creek.

If driving north from Santa Cruz, ignore the first possible right-hand turn with the sign for the park's nature center. The center is currently closed for renovation. Park instead along the east side of Highway 1, across from Waddell Beach. If you bring horses or have reserved a permit for an overnight backpacking trip, turn right at the parking area and drive about a half mile up the road near the park office. Trailer parking is limited, but an equestrian campground can also be reserved in advance.

Although horses are allowed on most trails in the park, dogs are not. Horseback riders with well-conditioned horses can ride from Rancho del Oso all the way to the visitor center on Highway 236, but bikes are limited to the six miles of trail along Waddell Creek.

Ambitious day hikers and overnight backpackers can download the park map and craft a long loop hike through the heart of the park and the West Waddell Creek State Wilderness.

There are several options for camping. In addition to the equestrian group camp at Rancho del Oso and backpacker camps along the trails, there are five family campgrounds and a group camp in the center of the park along Highway 236. These campgrounds are great if you want to be near the visitor center and easy trails through the redwoods. Tiny, delicate waterfalls are within the reach of most hikers. Campfire programs are offered at night. Because the central section of the park is not directly connected by road to the Rancho del Oso section, a closer campground can be found a few miles north of Rancho del Oso at Butano State Park.

In addition to hiking, riding, and enjoying the redwoods, you can relax at Waddell Beach and watch the windsurfers. If you have additional time, check out some of the nearby state parks: Wilder Ranch, Año Nuevo, Castle Rock, Henry Cowell Redwoods and Pigeon Point Light Station.

Adam Blauert is an avid outdoorsman and local historian who enjoys fishing, backpacking and exploring the Western states. He can be reached at adamblauert@yahoo.com.

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