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Wednesday, Sep. 09, 2009

Amanda De Jager Friedman: The fungus you either love or hate

Mushrooms.

Love 'em or hate 'em, there seems to be no middle ground.

I can't get enough of the "fun guys," and yet my dad won't touch them with a 10-foot cattle prod. The fact that they're cultivated in compost is apparently too unsettling for him to stomach. One would think that a true-blue dairy veteran would have no qualms about anything grown in compost, and yet mushrooms remain one of the few things he won't eat.

Sushi? No problem.

Spicy food? Anytime.

Mushrooms? Not a chance.

Consequently, it has become a culinary challenge of mine to sneak mushrooms into my dishes when he's eating with us, just to see if he'll even notice. I have emerged victorious many times. Mostly, I just keep the whole mushroom conspiracy a secret. But now and then, I can't contain myself, and I'll interrupt his third or fourth bite with a gleeful announcement about the fungal contents of the meal. It is my intention to prove that his mushroom aversion is purely mental, and not based on savory experience, which makes it, in my opinion, completely illogical. Regardless, he won't budge on his preference, and I won't budge on mine.

This being the case, we rarely ate mushrooms growing up. I could have cared less about them, until one day in high school, a friend showed me how to sauté sliced button mushrooms in butter and Worcestershire sauce. It was love at first bite. I've never ceased in my affection for mushrooms, and their versatility makes them a star in our kitchen.

Portabellas (also known as portobellos) are meatier than other mushrooms, mostly because they are more mature. In fact, portabellas are actually the adult version of crimini mushrooms. Their signature dark brown color and lack of moisture make them a perfect candidate for grilling, sauteing, or broiling. Because of their density, they are also a perfect vessel for delicious stuffings.

When choosing any mushroom, look for a firm, dry cap. A slimy texture or withered cap is a sign of an old, or improperly stored mushroom. Store them in a dry spot in the fridge, and clean just before using. To clean, just brush the mushrooms gently with a damp paper towel. Do not rinse, as the mushrooms will soak up water, and will become soggy.

RECIPE: Italian Stuffed Mushrooms

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 Tablespoons soy sauce

20 baby Portobello mushrooms, or 4 large Portobello mushrooms

1 cup Italian sausage, cooked and crumbled, fat reserved

2 tablespoons shallots, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

2/3 cup pesto

3/4 cup bread crumbs

1 egg, beaten

1/2 cup parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Remove stems from mushrooms and clean the caps gently. Toss with olive oil and soy sauce, place on a sheet pan, and set aside while preparing other ingredients.

Place cooked sausage in a medium mixing bowl. Do not clean the pan used to cook the sausage -- the brown bits will give so much extra flavor to this recipe!

Sautee the shallots and garlic in the same pan used to cook the sausage, with the reserved sausage fat over high heat for about 3 minutes, or until shallots are translucent. Be careful to avoid browning the garlic. Add white wine, and stir to deglaze the pan. Pour the shallot-wine mixture over the sausage in mixing bowl.

Add pesto, bread crumbs, and mozzarella, and mix gently but thoroughly. Add beaten egg, tossing together to combine.

Divide stuffing evenly between the mushrooms, filling the caps generously. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese.

Bake for 12-15 minutes, until the tops are golden brown. Serve warm.