Harvest time in California's Rice Bowl | Merced Sun-Star

Virtually every piece of sushi made in America uses California rice. Its starchy grains offer just the right consistency.

"It holds together better," said chef Taro Arai, whose Mikuni restaurants in Northern California use more than 2,500 pounds a day of rice; the fresher, the better. "You need it starchy. Long-grain rice, you can never make a roll with it. California grows a variety that's exactly what we want."

More than 95 percent of California's rice crop grows within 100 miles of Sacramento, with rice covering more than 580,000 acres.

Most of this crop is marketed as Calrose, the name of the medium-grain variety that formed the foundation for the state's $1.8 billion rice industry. The bulk of the crop will be exported to Japan, Taiwan, Korea and the Middle East.

While fresh, or "new crop," rice represents a premium product in Japan, American consumers are just learning about its subtle differences in texture and taste.

"It's just totally different," Arai said. "It's so shiny. It cooks differently; it needs a little less water because it contains more moisture. It has its own taste. I just can't wait for it every year."

As with many California crops in 2011, rice harvest started about three weeks late, delayed by a cool summer. Recent storms put another crimp in the harvest schedule: Heavy machinery can't navigate muddy fields.

Moisture — in the grain, not the ground — determines when to harvest. For maximum quality, farmers wait until the moisture content falls to 24 percent. Higher, the rice may spoil; lower, the grains start to fall apart.

After harvest, the rice is sent to a dryer and the grains are stabilized. Then, hulls are removed and the naturally brown grains are polished to a pearly white.

SIDE DISHES

• Nutrition: One cup of cooked Calrose rice has about 190 calories. Rice is a good source of folate, niacin and thiamin.
• Storage: In a cool, dry place, rice maintains its quality for two years.
• Brown vs. white: All rice starts as brown rice, a whole grain. Milling and polishing turns the grains white. Brown rice has a few more calories (220 per cup, cooked), more fiber and more vitamin B6.
• Perfect rice: Use 1 cup water to 1 cup fresh Calrose rice; 1¼ cups water to 1 cup older rice. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, bring water and rice to boil; cover and reduce heat to low. Let simmer without stirring for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest five minutes, fluff with fork.
• Look for the Calrose label: California ranks as America's No. 2 rice producer, growing about 20 percent of the nation's crop and virtually all of its short- and medium-grain varieties. Most California rice is marketed under the name Calrose.
• The average American eats about 25 pounds of rice a year. By contrast, Japanese consumers average 135 pounds per year.
• Why here? So much rice production encircles Sacramento because of hardpan clay soil, mild winters and hot summers. The clay keeps irrigation water from seeping quickly into the soil.

Sushi Rice

This recipe is also from chef Taro Arai.

Ingredients:

1 cup Calrose short-grain white rice

1 to 1¼ cups water

1 (2-inch) piece kombu (dried kelp)

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon white sugar

½ teaspoon salt

Instructions:

Rinse the rice in a strainer or colander under cold running water until the water runs clear. Drain well. Place rice in a medium saucepan with 1¼ cups water (1 cup if using new crop rice) and kombu. Bring to boil; reduce heat to low. Cover and cook for 20 minutes or until water is absorbed and rice is tender.

In a small saucepan, combine rice vinegar, sugar and salt. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Slowly pour mixture over cooked rice until well coated. Gently separate the grains by slicing a rice paddle across the rice rather than stirring.

Do not refrigerate. Continue to cool at room temperature; the rice will dry as it cools. If desired, use a hand-held fan to help cool the rice as it absorbs the vinegar; that produces a glossy finish.

American Dream Sauce

This recipe is adapted from one by chef Taro Arai of Mikuni.

Ingredients:

1 egg yolk (pasteurized preferred)

¼ teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

White pepper to taste

½ cup vegetable oil

½ teaspoon soy sauce

¾ teaspoon sesame oil

¼ cup ketchup

¼ cup Thai chili paste

Instructions:

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with salt, rice vinegar and white pepper. Add vegetable oil a little at a time, stirring constantly. Add soy sauce, sesame oil, ketchup and chili paste. Continue to whisk until well blended.

Store unused sauce in the refrigerator.

Dreamy Scallops

Serves: 4

Topped with chef Taro Arai's American dream sauce, this appetizer is a popular dish at Mikuni.

Ingredients:

8 large sea scallops

1 cup prepared sushi rice (see recipe)

½ cup cooked crab meat

4 teaspoons magic sauce (see recipe)

2 large strawberries, sliced thin

Miso sauce (available at most supermarkets)

American dream sauce (see recipe)

Tempura crumbs for garnish, optional

Finely sliced green onions for garnish, optional

Instructions:

Make sushi rice. When rice is thoroughly cooled, form eight balls, each the size of a large walnut. (Each ball will use 2 tablespoons sushi rice.)

Under the broiler, lightly sear scallops for one to two minutes. (This also can be done in a hot skillet with 1 tablespoon oil to prevent sticking.)

In small bowl, mix crab with magic sauce.

On a plate, arrange the sushi balls. Place a seared scallop on each ball. Top each scallop with a spoonful of crab mix. Place a thin slice of strawberry on top of crab.

Drizzle miso sauce and American dream sauce over the top. Sprinkle tempura crumbs and green onions on top for garnish. Serve immediately.

Magic Sauce

This recipe is from chef Taro Arai of Mikuni.

Ingredients:

1 egg yolk (pasteurized preferred)

¼ teaspoon sea salt

White pepper to taste

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

½ cup vegetable oil

1½ teaspoons mirin (sweet Japanese cooking wine)

½ teaspoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon minced daikon radish

½ tablespoon sriacha hot sauce

Instructions:

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with salt, pepper and rice vinegar. Mix in the vegetable oil, a little at a time. Add mirin, soy sauce, daikon and sriacha hot sauce. Whisk until well blended. Store unused sauce in refrigerator.

Eggceptional Egg-Fried Rice

Serves: 4

This recipe is from "Seoultown Kitchen: Korean Pub Grub to Share With Family and Friends," by Debbie Lee (Kyle, $24.95, November release).

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons sesame oil

4 eggs, beaten

4 cups cooked Calrose rice, chilled

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon white pepper

2 tablespoons chopped scallions, green parts only

Instructions:

Preheat wok over medium-high heat. Add sesame oil and warm for one minute. Add eggs and scramble quickly. Add rice and continue to cook for three to four minutes, stirring constantly. Add soy sauce and seasonings and give the rice mixture one more quick toss. Garnish with scallions and serve.

Kimchee Fried Rice

Serves: 4

This recipe is from "Seoultown Kitchen: Korean Pub Grub to Share With Family and Friends," by Debbie Lee (Kyle, $24.95, November release).

Ingredients:

¼ pound pork belly, skin off, cut lengthwise in ¼-inch slices

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup mirin

Sea salt, white pepper

2 tablespoons sesame oil for frying

2 cups kimchee, julienned

¼ cup Korean pepper (gochu), in rings

4 cups cooked Calrose rice, chilled

¼ cup kimchee juice, from the kimchee jar

¼ cup chopped scallions

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 eggs

1 tablespoon roasted, salted sesame seeds

Instructions:

Combine pork belly, soy sauce and mirin. Season with salt and white pepper.

Heat skillet over medium-high heat. Sear pork belly for three to five minutes on each side until marinade caramelizes on the meat. Set skillet aside, letting pork continue to cook off the heat for 10 minutes. Slice meat crosswise into ¼-inch strips and set aside.

Heat wok over medium-high heat. Add sesame oil and warm for one minute. Add pork belly, kimchee and Korean peppers and sauté for three to four minutes, stirring constantly. Add rice, tossing it constantly to keep it from sticking to the wok. Add kimchee juice, scallions, and season with salt and white pepper. Remove from heat.

Heat another nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add vegetable oil and warm for one minute. Crack eggs in pan and cook sunny side up until done. Place fried rice on four plates, top each with an egg and garnish with sesame seeds.

Bacon, Spam or hot dogs can be substituted for the pork belly.

Volcano Rice

Serves: 2

Adapted from a recipe by chef Taro Arai of Mikuni.

Ingredients:

1 cup prepared sushi rice (see recipe above)

1 small jalapeño, finely chopped

1 green onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons Thai chili sauce

1 lemon, cut in half

Coarse sea salt

Splash of rum

6 pieces sushi-grade fresh tuna, sliced into thin 3-inch long pieces

Instructions:

Mix sushi rice with jalapeño, onion and chili sauce until well blended.

In small bowl, tightly pack rice mixture. On a plate, unmold the rice to form a mound. Squeeze one-half lemon over top of rice mound. Place strips of tuna vertically on sides of mound so they appear to lead to top. Rub the cut side of remaining lemon half in salt. Place lemon half on top of mound with pointed end sticking down into the rice. (This will form a little "cauldron" on top of the "volcano.") Drizzle lemon half with rum. Ignite rum with long match. Serve immediately.