Highland Lakes proves to be nice getaway location

Looking for a place to get away from the smoke, we headed out on a camping trip to Highland Lakes last weekend. It’s hard to find a place in this state that doesn’t have a nearby fire in this sad season of drought.

Even there, 40 miles east and more than 5,000 feet above the Butte fire, we did experience some smoke starting Saturday night.

Despite that, Highland Lakes is one of my favorite campgrounds in the state. Situated in a small, subalpine valley and ringed by dramatic mountains, the campsites are all within a short walk of both lakes. A few have full, uninterrupted views of the upper lake. Lodgepole pines shade the campsites but aren’t too close together to keep campers from having partial views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

There aren’t very many campgrounds in this state that are directly adjacent to natural alpine lakes. What’s nice about Highland Lakes is that after you arrive, there’s no reason to get back in your car until you have to go home. We spent Saturday afternoon, Saturday night and part of Sunday floating inflatable boats on the upper lake, fishing the lower lake, playing games in the campground, eating good food, enjoying a campfire. You can also walk around the lakes or explore one of the nearby wilderness trails.

The lakes are relatively small and the speed limit on the water is 5 mph. Gasoline motors are discouraged and the lake is ideal for kayaks, canoes, float tubes and inflatable boats.

Fishing can be good, especially in the lower lake. Despite smoke and clouds, I still managed to land three 12-inch brook trout in under an hour. This isn’t the first time I’ve had good luck casting spinners at the west end of the lower lake. The brookies were also regularly hitting the surface for insects.

Surprisingly, the campground was less than half full. The fire was probably part of the reason, though the smoke was never bad at the lakes. The road may also be a deterrent. The five miles of dirt road from Highway 4 to the lakes may not be especially rough, but a high-clearance vehicle such as an SUV or truck is definitely recommended. We saw some pop-up trailers, but nothing larger. The third reason was that hunting season has begun.

Although hunting was taking place out in the forest, it is prohibited in recreation areas such as right around the lakes and the campground. Hiking is still generally safe if you take precautions such as wearing bright colors, avoiding sunset and sunrise, and making noise as you walk. If you hike at sunset or sunrise, wear a headlamp or use a flashlight.

Hunter orange is the recommended color for people and dogs. You can also choose to hike in areas where hunting is prohibited, such as national and state parks.

The weekends after Labor Day are one of my favorite seasons in the Sierra. The weather isn’t always as predictable as in summer, but it is usually pretty good and the crowds and mosquitoes are gone. At an elevation of 8,600 feet, weather can definitely fluctuate, but during our trip it was comfortable. It didn’t get nearly as cold as I expected at night, though you should definitely be prepared for all possibilities.

There are 35 first-come, first-served campsites at Highland Lakes and an additional area for camping with horses. They are usually open from June through October and there are several nearby campgrounds in case all the sites at Highland are full. Amenities are limited to picnic tables, water from an old-fashioned pump, fire rings and pit toilets, but the sites are well-spaced and the location can’t be beat. You get all this for only $12 a night and the responsibility to haul away your own trash.

Cattle graze around the lake under U.S. Forest Service permits. After three trips to Highland Lakes, I have to say that cattle have never been a problem. Yes, you do have to watch your step when walking outside the campground, but they keep their distance from people and provide background figures for your photographs.

Most of them wear bells and as they move the bells have the same effect as a collection of wind chimes in a breeze or a primitive carillon. We heard them in the distance throughout the day and a few times at night. It may not be to everyone’s taste, but to me it was peaceful and it soothed me back to sleep like a lullaby.

To find Highland Lakes, look for a sign that indicates a right turn off Highway 4, about 18 miles beyond Lake Alpine and two miles below the summit of Ebbetts Pass. Highway 4 is a gentle mountain road from Angels Camp to Lake Alpine, but above the lake it narrows to a width of about 1½ lanes without a center line. Careful driving is required.

This story was originally published September 15, 2015 at 7:45 PM with the headline "Highland Lakes proves to be nice getaway location."