‘Traditional backyard barbecue.’ Fresno restaurant mixes smoked meats and soul food

Savory barbecue with some soul food is how Herman Tatum spent much of his Sundays growing up.

That taste of smoky ribs with fried fish, accompanied by a side of collard greens and mac and cheese.

It always was a feast and fun times for Tatum after having gone to church.

And that’s what Tatum strives to offer at the newly-opened Hogg Pitt in Fresno, providing good size portions of barbecue favorites, along with a few soul food staples

“What I’m trying to do (is) take that knowledge that I’ve known from eating at churches, church picnics, the family reunions, the little backyard cookings, and combine it,” Tatum said. “We’re going to give the best we can give you, and we’re always going to feed you good.”

The Hogg Pitt opened at its new location at 2599 E. Ashlan Ave. about a month ago, expanding from its old spot inside a gas station in the area west of Highway 99.

Keeping it simple

Tatum, 47, takes a simple approach both in his barbecue cooking method and what foods his restaurant offers.

Using a Midwest approach, Tatum primarily relies on salt and pepper to flavor his meats and generates a smoky taste by burning almond wood.

In addition, Tatum uses his secret, in-house barbecue sauce as a way to enhance the flavor — not carry the food’s taste.

And while Tatum combines a pair of culinary worlds, he limits the selection choices on the menu.

Among those notably missing from the Hogg Pitt menu are brisket and fried chicken.

The restaurant does offer traditional barbecue plates like tri-tip, ribs and smoked chicken, as well as soul food favorites such as ox tail, fried fish and shrimp. And don’t forget to try the cornbread.

“I’m not trying to over-flavor you with 10, 15 different products,” Tatum said. “It’s a traditional backyard barbecue with the best flavor.

“I like to give it to people who aren’t eating this every day. ... We’re not using liquid smoke. Not boiling our ribs. We give you authenticity straight across the board.”

BBQ awards

Tatum enjoys watching barbecue television shows, but he said he’s not into competing at events and trying to win awards.

He knows there are other people who can cook good barbecue, too. Folks who spend hours upon hours smoking meats, and who use more complex and detailed approaches on how to smoke and grill.

“That’s great for them,” Tatum said. “That’s not what I do.”

Instead, Tatum said he tries to excel with his simple approach to barbecue.

Producing neither award-winning nor “get-by” barbecue, but making barbecue that make customers coming back for more.

“A lot of the barbecue guys, they got all these awards up,” Tatum said. “I’m not big on that. That’s their niche.

“My thing is repeat customers and a smile on your face. That’s my trophy.”

On the soul food side, Tatum said he views longtime family friend Paul Pearson, AKA Chef Paul of the popular restaurant in the Chinatown area of Fresno, as one of his mentors.

“He used to cook with my grandmother,” Tatum said.

Tatum added that he’s gotten tips from Chef Paul on how to reach different people through food.

“Chef Paul is so diverse,” Tatum said. “You come into his restaurant and it’s full of people from all aspects of life. That’s what I want.

“We’re all God’s children. I want to be able to feed everybody.”

Because at Hogg Pitt, Tatum said it’s always Sunday barbecue and everyone is invited.

This story was originally published June 7, 2025 at 5:30 AM with the headline "‘Traditional backyard barbecue.’ Fresno restaurant mixes smoked meats and soul food."